How to Make The Dinner/Heaven Dress

What is this dress?

The Dinner Dress is the most complicated dress Rose wears in James Cameron's Titanic, but one. The other is the Heaven Dress, which is most conviniently the same pattern as the dinner dress, just with more beads, sequins, embroidery and rhinestones. The Dinner Dress is also many people's favorite dress. Here are some pictures.

Have you made this dress?

Yes I have! Twice! The blue version was a test version, where I tested my initial pattern ideas. The second one is far more accurate and far less tacky!

What fabric(s) is this dress made of?

There is quite a bit of debate over what these dresses are made of. I am using Taffeta and Chiffon although others have used tulle and silk, as well as other fabrics. They are all quite expensive.

What pattern(s) will I need for this dress?

You will need a basic, sleeveless princess-seam pattern. You can make your own by merging together a princess-seam corset and a princess-seam skirt (Try Simplicity 9484). Some good patterns are Simplicity 5672 (Although you would need to add a back), Simplicity 9162 (Although it has sleeves) and Butterick 6533.

What extra touches does this dress take?

Tons! The original dresses had over 1500 hand applied sequins, beads, rhinestones and pearls, as well as elaborate embroidery. If you are not up to putting on at least some sequins (as that is the most visible trim and should be the one used if you only have the patience to do one) don't even bother. This dress is nothing without these touches.

How much time will this dress take?

The dress itself will not actually take to long. The Under dress took me less than 2 hours to do all the basic seams on, and the overdress only has 1 seam. The time is in the embelishes and the draping. This dress can take anywhere from 2-3 days (minimal-no touches) to 2+ months (full out!).

How much will this dress cost me?

Taffeta is about $16-24.00 a meter and you will need three meters of it, and chiffon is about $8-12.00 a meter and you will need three meters of that too. You will also need a meter of lining (about $5.00) as well as beads, sequins, rhinestones and pearls. These can cost upwards of $50.00. Also make sure to purchase a zipper, hooks and eyes and some large pins. So, this dress is about $150.00, unless you are lucky enough to find a sale.

What alterations will this dress need?

The pattern will have to be altered so that the skirt is full and the sleeves are short. Then, you need to make the pattern for the overdress. The overdress (conviniently) has no shaping in the seams. That is where the two large triple-8 pins we see come in. They both are at the waist, one at the front and one at the back. The 'slit' between the two front panels is just following the only seam in the overdress. See:

The back is a long piece, which is gathered under the arm with another pin.

I have drafted a pattern of this overdress which will need to be altered to your size. Feel free to use this shape or your own. If this diagram is clear as mud, feel free to contact me.

If you are going to make your own I recommend doing immense amounts of research.

Anything else?

Make sure to get hooks and eyes to control the draping. And it would be a good idea to get a dress form if you can, if not, borrow one.

Ok, how do I make it?

Before Sewing:

• Make sure to pre-wash the fabric or the dress might shrink after you finish it. Make sure not to wash fabrics that require dry-cleaning or you will destroy them.
• Be very careful cutting chiffon! It is very tricky stuff to work with and distorts easily.

1. Sew the princess seam dress, sleeves and lining just as the instructions say except leave the zipper gap in the left side seam and do not sew it together. Sew up the back seam. DO NOT attatch or hem any pieces. Set these aside. Now it's time for the overdress.

2. On the piece that will have the slats, mark three lines that are equal distance apart. Fold them over, press them and stitch them in place. These are your 'slats' and they will be the most heavily adorned part of the entire dress if you do this accurately. See:

3. Stitch together the two pieces from the neck down, but stop at the waist, just below where the pin will be. See the picture below to see where.

4. Hem the edges of the piece that will not be sewn in at the top or included in the hem. This includes the bottom of both slats and the gather edges.

5. Now it is time for the most time-consuming part. Embroider, bead, sequin, pearl and adorn the overdress at this point. Take care not to put sequins on the portions that will be hemmed or sewn into the lining. The best thing to do is to go until you feel you have over done it, then do some more. This dress is very heavily done. I have found that it is best to make up your own design for this dress's adornment. If you are going for the full-out re-creation feel free to, but the best way is to make something similar up. Use the following pictures for ideas.

6. Now, stitch the overdress to the underdress inside the seam allowance at the neckline, and stitch the slatted side to the corresponding edge on the underdress.

7. Stitch in the lining and sleeves as according to the instructions, taking care for your embelishments.

8. Put in the zipper under the arm (be careful!!)

9. Sew in hooks and eyes so you can hook the draping to them and control where it drapes. The draping is meant to cover the zipper.

10. That's it! Contact me if you need any more help.